i already made a tutorial on dry brushing before, its just that my knowledge on this back then was ehhhh not so good. so i have decided to make another one.

materials:

-choice of paint

-brush [preferably old]

-tissue or old cloth

start by dipping your brush into the bottle of paint like so.

next, dab/wipe on tissue or cloth till you could barely see paint coming of it.

 i exaggerated a bit on the second picture, it actually depends on the kind of effect your after. if you want a big blotch o dry brushing then you probably need a bit more on your brush. but if your going for that subtle scratches, highlighting effect then you only need a small amount.

here I'm going to be working on the hand of my dreissen, gonna give slight scratch effects to give it a slight worn out look.

The secret to getting a better effect is to continuously brush the sides and corners of an area with your brush. this will let the paint grip on to those areas. the more times you dry brush the deeper the effect like so…

i slightly overdid the dry brushing in this photo. It really depends on what effect you want to show.

 i only wanted to go for a small highlight, so to remove this i just dip a qtip into alcohol and wipe the excess away. since the base coat is lacquer and i used acrylic for the dry brushing, the base coat will not be affected.

here are other examples of good dry brushing spots.

with the proper techniques used, you can end up with a nicely weathered model.

currently working on the RG Zeta, and i think its looking pretty great.. paint wise. the only thing now between a nice top coat and a panel wash is its decals. as much as decals make your kits look extra awesome, its a pain to put them on. and Real Grade's got a hell lot of them. hahaha sorry about my rambling i just find the process of putting on water slide decals very tedious and annoying.

at the moment, i've been at decal work for the past 4 days, hoping to finish soon. though i highly doubt it.. at least i got the body work finished. still got a lot to do on the weapons etc.

as much as i hate applying decals i got to say, it does a great job making this zeta look awesome.

till next time!

i received a couple of requests to do a tutorial on how i thin citadel paints when i airbrush, but i never really had much time and my experience with citadel then wasn't so great. so for me, citadel products are very easy to use and gives you high quality pigment. here i would be showing you how to thin citadel paints so that it can be airbrushed.

i never pre mix my citadel paints in its bottle because 1, there isn't enough space to thin down the pant to its proper consistency. and 2, you wouldn't get the most out of it since citadel does come in small bottles, so to use your citadel paints to its fullest its best to mix/thin right before you airbrush.

materials:

-isopropyl alcohol

-plastic measuring cup/ mixing dish

i use alcohol as my thinning solvent because it seems to work fine with citadel being acrylic based. though many say it can nicely work when thinned with water. 

so i first put my thinner into the measuring cup at least half of what you need in your airbrush cup.

i prefer using a white measuring cup because its easier to tell once the paint is ready and can be poured in to your airbrush without a problem.

give the bottle a good mix and probably also a good shake to mix the pigments together. next, dip a flat brush into your paint, it should be able to grip onto the bristles since it is still un thinned. use this to transfer the paint to your mixing cup with thinner.

mix it well with the thinner until the paint has been removed from your brush and into your cup of thinner. to check if the paint is ready, just drag your brush up the side of the cup. you should be able to tell if its ready once the pigment starts to get left behind. 

pour it in your airbrush cup once its ready.