Welcome to my starter guide to filling in warps, now warps are usually plastic that have sunk in the surface so my recommended approach is to fill it in with a decent amount of putty. Tamiya's Basic Putty is my go-to guy when it comes to getting rid of these warps. So lets begin.

This fresh tube can last years if used for the right purposes. 

This one lasted 3 years till it dried up eventually.

The putty may be applied with a hobby knife but i choose to use a toothpick since it makes things easier for me and i get to spread it quite accurately.

Apply the putty and be sure to cover up the surface where the warps are located. Its important to be able to completely fill up the warped plastic. Excess putty is fine, it can always be sanded down after.

Here's a few examples after covering warped pieces.

It can also be used to fix molding flaws.

I sanded the parts down starting with a file, then worked my way down to lower grits of sandpaper. The good thing about Tamiya's putty is that when scratched with abrasives it releases a metallic sheen to indicate whether or not it has been touched by the sandpaper. This gets useful when filling in warps, because with it you can tell if the surface has been equally smoothened. 

If you look closer there are still areas in the putty that wasn't completely filled in, a second application would be needed.

The supposedly final look after finishing putting it together. ^

I really dig the eye sensors, its molded in transparent plastic just like most of the higher grade Gundam model kits only WAY bigger haha. Another reason for this is that this model comes with an LED system, and it will connect to the eyes. One problem I found here is that the clear pieces don't always attach securely on to the sockets of that black "eye piece". Yes it sticks, but its prone to getting pushed in which can ruin a build once its done. So I temporarily secured it with blu tak from the insides.

Okay so this part is supposed to be its head vulcans. In the manual, and pictures, it looked like a mini gattling gun and from what I see, it doesn't seem so convincing at it is. I dealt with this "problem" later on in this article.

Getting some work done in bed. :)

An LED was supposed to be fitted thru here (as stated in the manual) but guess its just another flaw in this kit. Nothing to fret about really, just had to drill in a hole with my trusty pin vise.

 And viola! Nicely done.

Majority of the head is now assembled, and it turned out looking quite bad ass if i may say. I really dig all the detail and not only that; there is still plenty of space for further modifications i may do in the process.

The Eye Sensor's really stand out here, cant wait to see it all lighten up.

Told you I'd try to deal with the head vulcan problem. haha drilled in some holes with my pin vise for this one. Could be a temporary fix, might replace it with  little plastic pipes instead to make it pop.

Head fully assembled. ( different angled shots)

Don't mind the tape, placed on to protect the fragile V-fins. One drop and its over.

And lets fast forward to the finished build! Don't worry I'll still tackle the kits flaws as i prep it for painting and modifications. 

So this is basically what you should expect if you got to put this kit properly. It would need slight mods to attach part in some areas but that wouldn't be much of a problem if you know how to deal with these kinds of things.

That metal spring actually dos a great job in adding "realism" to this model.

Okay so I actually disassembled it right after i put it together, to prepare it for painting.

 (further inspections and mods etc.) And thru out the whole kit, you will encounter lots of warps, and other errors in the mold. (mostly warps) to those that do not know what a warp is; it is certain areas where the plastic is deformed or distorted. For example: areas where the plastic just sinks in.

Just like the ones on this part above. Can you see the how the plastic is slightly dented in 2 areas? Those are warps, and when painted.. It will be seen, so i suggest removing it as soon as you can. 

That's when putty comes in handy. You can check out my starter guide to filling in warps with putty.

More molding flaws! (the rings on the plastic) sometimes these may be removed by simply sanding it flat. But as you can see it goes a bit deeper than the surface and i'm going to fill that in with putty as well.

After the "putty fix" the surface should be flat and smooth. You will see if it needs any fixing once you spray on your layer of primer.

Inserting something thin like a toothpick for example will pop the part right out!

Like so :) 

Anyway that's all for my WIP / Review on this build, Hope I was able to be of some help. I really appreciate those SHARE my articles and if you have any questions or requests you can always comment down below, I would love to help.

Till next time!

I start bay laying some tape over the area i want to "duplicate".

 And shade it with a pencil afterwards. I try to focus on the edges, that's where the graphite sticks on to the most.

The pencil was able to accurately highlight the edges of the raised detail on the piece.

Time to take out that fresh pack of Pla Plates! 

  

Separate the tape from the part and lay the strip on a sheet.

Use this as a guideline as you cut out the shape you need.

Tah Dah. Now attach the pla plate with some plastic cement or super glue.

The edges are still quite rough, but some putty and sanding will take care of that.

  

Now this technique may also be applied in modifying. After taking the outline on the tape, you may use it to design extra detail, and that would be used when cutting out your desired shape.

Like so.

I had to use some tweezers when applying the plastic cement to avoid getting them on my fingers.

Final out put after placement and sanding.

And that should be enough to start you guys off when using pla plates!

Till next time!