Each pack has two small sheets and strips of double sided tape to attach it.

  

Found good detail work on this part.

  

But unfortunately its positioned underneath it's face armor. Now my goal here is to bore an opening (neatly) to make these details be seen. 

Started off by tracing the area I want to remove using a pencil.

Then I followed up with my pin vise. remember to drill the holes INSIDE the outline, you'd want space to file down later on in the process.

Viola, it should look something like this if done properly. Drilling holes isn't so easy especially if the surface you're planing to cover is vast, so I do suggest getting a rotary tool to make things easier for you and your fingers.

Next, using your hobby blade or xacto knife, cut out the outline in which you drilled. Its just like connecting the dots, so remember when drilling.. keep the distances between holes as close as possible.

Once you cleared of majority of the plastic, it would appear rough and messy. You may use your hobby blade to smoothen it a bit, then start working your way in with your file to properly get those edges and get a cleaner finish.

Since you have your opening, we may now proceed to applying the mesh. Check the size needed and cut this out accordingly.

The pack comes with double sided tape but I will be using plastic cement on this one. The styling mesh is made out of plastic so this will work just fine, it also helps settle the mesh into those curves and holds them there.

If you have tweezers, laying on the mesh will be less tedious. 

Put a small amount of cement on the plastic before hand to let the mesh have something to grip on, push down with tweezers and add another layer of cement on the edges to secure.

I was also able to apply this technique here. After drilling out a hole, instead of using mesh i cut out thin strips of pla plates and line them up to create vents.

A very classy modification you can add to any of your models.

That's all for now! I hope this helped, if you have any suggestions or requests feel free to comment down below. And sharing will be well appreciated. Spread the hobby!

Till next time.

The supposedly final look after finishing putting it together. ^

I really dig the eye sensors, its molded in transparent plastic just like most of the higher grade Gundam model kits only WAY bigger haha. Another reason for this is that this model comes with an LED system, and it will connect to the eyes. One problem I found here is that the clear pieces don't always attach securely on to the sockets of that black "eye piece". Yes it sticks, but its prone to getting pushed in which can ruin a build once its done. So I temporarily secured it with blu tak from the insides.

Okay so this part is supposed to be its head vulcans. In the manual, and pictures, it looked like a mini gattling gun and from what I see, it doesn't seem so convincing at it is. I dealt with this "problem" later on in this article.

Getting some work done in bed. :)

An LED was supposed to be fitted thru here (as stated in the manual) but guess its just another flaw in this kit. Nothing to fret about really, just had to drill in a hole with my trusty pin vise.

 And viola! Nicely done.

Majority of the head is now assembled, and it turned out looking quite bad ass if i may say. I really dig all the detail and not only that; there is still plenty of space for further modifications i may do in the process.

The Eye Sensor's really stand out here, cant wait to see it all lighten up.

Told you I'd try to deal with the head vulcan problem. haha drilled in some holes with my pin vise for this one. Could be a temporary fix, might replace it with  little plastic pipes instead to make it pop.

Head fully assembled. ( different angled shots)

Don't mind the tape, placed on to protect the fragile V-fins. One drop and its over.

And lets fast forward to the finished build! Don't worry I'll still tackle the kits flaws as i prep it for painting and modifications. 

So this is basically what you should expect if you got to put this kit properly. It would need slight mods to attach part in some areas but that wouldn't be much of a problem if you know how to deal with these kinds of things.

That metal spring actually dos a great job in adding "realism" to this model.

Okay so I actually disassembled it right after i put it together, to prepare it for painting.

 (further inspections and mods etc.) And thru out the whole kit, you will encounter lots of warps, and other errors in the mold. (mostly warps) to those that do not know what a warp is; it is certain areas where the plastic is deformed or distorted. For example: areas where the plastic just sinks in.

Just like the ones on this part above. Can you see the how the plastic is slightly dented in 2 areas? Those are warps, and when painted.. It will be seen, so i suggest removing it as soon as you can. 

That's when putty comes in handy. You can check out my starter guide to filling in warps with putty.

More molding flaws! (the rings on the plastic) sometimes these may be removed by simply sanding it flat. But as you can see it goes a bit deeper than the surface and i'm going to fill that in with putty as well.

After the "putty fix" the surface should be flat and smooth. You will see if it needs any fixing once you spray on your layer of primer.

Inserting something thin like a toothpick for example will pop the part right out!

Like so :) 

Anyway that's all for my WIP / Review on this build, Hope I was able to be of some help. I really appreciate those SHARE my articles and if you have any questions or requests you can always comment down below, I would love to help.

Till next time!