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Sealing Seam Lines

February 13, 2016

What are seam lines? In model kits, these is the space between two parts when put together.

(mostly in the form of a line) It can be a sore to the eye if you're going for that "perfect" finish. But getting rid of it takes time, everything worthwhile does (oh damn.)

Now if you look below, you can see 2 pieces from my X-wing's lazer cannon. Most of the time it is parts like these that leave a seam line.

Spotted one right down the center. The goal here is to get rid of it without harming other details as much as possible if you can.

Extra thin plastic cement are made to for this task, I have two of this: Tamiya's and the one you can see below Mr.Hobby. I will be using Mr. hobby for this tutorial.

Start by prying open the gap a little more wider with the aid of my hobby blade, and by that I mean VERY VERY VERY little.

After you pry it open, try to squeeze it till you have a "hair strand" of space left, the closer the gap is the more effective the capillary action will work allowing the cement to flow completely thru the space.

I was able to squeeze it just enough to let the two parts come this close together.

That's when I apply the extra thin cement, and let it flow into the gap freely. You can see the cement flowing, and if it doesn't cover the seam completely you can always apply it on those areas just to make sure that you get the fluid into the entire gap.

I let the cement settle in there for about 20-30 seconds then I squeeze the two parts in together HARD.

Just put pressure on it till you see the melted plastic ooze out from between the two pieces. This shows that the cement is doing its work and filling the seam line in.

Apply another layer of cement on the line of "melted plastic" just to seal it in.

Allow the sealant to cure fully and dry before proceeding. You are free to sand off the excess plastic or use a hobby blade to slice it off.

I usually start off with the blade to remove the majority off the plastic before moving on with the sanding.

Carefully slice off the plastic without damaging any of the other detail on the parts.

Don't worry if the seams don't get fully removed, you may spot this once you begin priming. There are other ways to fix those minor issues.

Putty for one is a great example. You can use this to fill in gaps as well and fix other issues with the plastic. I have other "How-to's" which tackles things that I dint feel like writing down here.

- Nipping & Sanding Tips

- Filling Warps with Putty

The techniques here may be able to assist you with sealing seam lines so I recommend that you check it out and learn a thing or two.

And that's one of the many ways to remove those nasty seam lines. Feel free to comment and give suggestions, and I will do my best to attend to these matters.

Till next time!

basic tutorials

Nipping & Sanding tips

January 24, 2016

Nipping is the most essential foundation technique every plastic modeler needs to learn, why? Because models are full of plastic, plastic that you're going to need to cut, without the proper knowledge, bad nipping may lead to a messy looking build. (nub marks and excess sprue)

So first thing on the list is a good set of nippers, that's right, go find that perfect pair that suits you. I'm talking about high quality nippers for example Tamiya's which I recently got from a client of mine, but there are other good brands as well. So why invest on something more pricey and not the cheaper ones you see in generic hardware store, simply because hobby nippers were specifically made for plastic modelling and they can last a lifetime when properly cared for. They also provide a neater cut on the plastic which is what we're after here.

When nipping off a part I usually cut away from the part and closer to the gate leaving it with excess sprue also known as nubs.

Its much safer like this since cutting the sprue while it's connected to the gate may tear a chunk of plastic from the part or worse, accidentally cut the part off itself. So by cutting it away from the piece at first, not only prevents stress on the plastic but also allows you to properly examine the area you're going to cut before you actually do.

When cutting, I like cutting it on the direction the plastic was molded. Don't get what I mean? you may sometimes see mold lines by the nub, it's normal for the casts to leave marks like this. That is also my guide on which direction I should cut by nub.

So in this part, as you can see, I cut with the mold line which is horizontally leaving less stress on the plastic resulting into a neater slice.

Other methods can also be used to cut and smooth out the surface where u nipped of the excess sprue.

Tools like: Hobby blades, Files, and fine grit sandpaper.

Sanding is my personal favorite, and is also what the majority of plastic modelers use. Mainly because it comes in various grits, types and can be used for shaping and conforms to the different surfaces of the plastic. One of the most budget friendly things you'd love to have in your box of tools.

Since I'm going to be sanding a specific area only, i'm gong to be focusing on that and that only. You have to be aware of where you're sanding because you wouldn't want to sand wanted detail flat. So to avoid this, learn to fold your sandpaper to fit the area you plan on sanding. I prefer folding it in a "triangle-like" shape since it can get into thin corners and small areas where mold lines are often lurking.

Folding it flat would also allow you to sand deep into those corners.

I already nipped off the first nib and sanded it smooth. (you dint even know it was there) now to go on to the other one.

Hobby blades have been a favorite in the Gunpla community, and I used this a lot back then since it gets the job done quick and easy. But it does also have a risk of gouging out a chunk of plastic if you don't know how to handle it carefully. Remember to slide the blade AWAY from you when slicing the excess sprue, you wouldn't want to cut yourself by mistake.

And just like that, it's gone. Finish up with a bit of sanding to smooth the surface to touch.

Here's a nice clean cut.

Now if you're thinking "Doing that on EVERY piece would be exhausting!" ..well that's because it is exhausting. But you don't need to do this on EVERY piece. Use your common sense, I would usually do this on exposed or external parts that are not concealed. Such as the example on the bottom: It's sprue is attached to a peg, so obviously pegs are used to connect other parts which means it WONT be seen. Parts like these are the ones you don't need to put that much effort on, so just cut away!

The proper way of cutting sprue would be around here, but for parts like this you can bring it right down by the surface.

It wont be seen once it's been covered anyway. There goes my next tip: Always learn to observe where you're cutting and what you're going to cut. It can save you the hassle of smoothing down something that wouldn't be seen.

And since I have already brought up "pegs", let me impart an advice or two. Now pegs are the stubs of plastic that connects to a "socket" allowing two parts to stick together. Once it's stuck, sometimes it is also hard to get undone, and that is very annoying when you have to disassemble your kit when painting.

To make this easier, I start by cutting the pegs "slightly" at an angle. And widen the gap on the sockets as well. (Do this on parts you know will be hard to disassemble)

Use old nippers for procedures like these, you wouldn't want to damage your fresh ones.

Here I cut the plastic diagonally reducing the contact patch it will have once it's inside the socket.

like so..
Make sure that you do leave a good amount of plastic, because one common mistake is that people accidentally cut off too much that the other part will have nothing to attach on, resorting to other methods. (super glue, plastic cement etc.)

As for the sockets, use the edges of the tip of your nipper and skewer the hole in. You don't have to apply much force, but just enough for the plastic to scrape away making more space for the peg to fit.

Clean up the mess afterward by blowing on it or with the use of your hobby blade.

This part I "modified" is what holds an LED set up down, and I wouldn't want to risk damaging the wiring when I remove and attach it.

And that's all for now, If you have any comments or suggestions just leave it down on the "comments" section below, I will try my best to help.

Till next time!

Sealing Seam Lines

Nipping & Sanding tips

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